The History of Makeup
The earliest historical record of makeup comes from the 1st Dynasty of Egypt
(c.3100-2907 BC). Tombs from this era have revealed unguent jars, which in
later periods were scented. Unguent was a substance extensively used by men and
women to keep their skin hydrated and supple and to avoid wrinkles from the dry
heat. The women of Egypt also decorated their eyes by applying dark green
color to the under lid and blackening the lashes and the upper lid with kohl,
which was made from antimony (a metallic element) or soot. It is believed that
the Jews adopted the use of makeup from the Egyptians, since references to the
painting of faces appear in the New Testament section of the Bible.
Roman philosopher Plautus (254-184 BC) wrote, "A woman without paint is like
food without salt." Of course, Plautus was a dramatist, which would explain
his preference for the look of a "painted woman" at that time.
Romans widely used cosmetics by the middle of the 1st century AD. Kohl was
used for darkening eyelashes and eyelids, chalk was used for whitening the
complexion, and rouge was worn on the cheek. Depilatories were utilized at that
time and pumice was used for cleaning the teeth.
Women wore white lead and chalk on their faces in Greco-Roman society.
Persian women used henna dyes to stain their hair and faces with the belief that
these dyes enabled them to summon the majesty of the earth.
During the European middle ages, pale skin was a sign of wealth. Sixth
century women sought drastic measures to achieve that look by bleeding themselves,
although, in contrast, Spanish prostitutes wore pink makeup. Thirteenth century
affluent women donned pink lipstick as proof they could afford synthetic
makeup.
During the Italian Renaissance, lead pain was used to lighten the face, which
was very damaging to the wearer. Aqua Toffana was a popular face powder named
for its creator, Signora Toffana. Made from arsenic, Signora Toffana
instructed her rich clientele to apply the makeup only when their husbands were
around. It's interesting to note that Tofana was executed some six hundred dead
husbands later.
Cosmetics were seen as a health threat in Elizabethan England, although women
wore egg whites over their faces for a glazed look.
During the reign of Charles II, heavy makeup began to surface as a means to
contradict the pallor from being inside due to illness epidemics.
During the French Restoration in the 18th century, red rouge and lipstick
were used to give the impression of a healthy, fun-loving spirit.
Eventually, people in other countries became repulsed by excessive makeup and
claimed the "painted" French had something to hide.
During the Regency era, the most important item was rouge, which was used by
most everyone. At that time, eyebrows were blackened and hair was dyed. To
prevent a low hairline, a forehead bandage dipped in vinegar in which cats dung
had been steeped was worn. Most of the country dwellers' makeup recipes made
use of herbs, flowers, fat, brandy, vegetables, spring water and, of course,
crushed strawberries. During this era, white skin signified a life of leisure
while skin exposed to the sun indicated a life of outdoor labor. In order to
maintain a pale complexion, women wore bonnets, carried parasols, and covered all
visible parts of their bodies with whiteners and blemish removers.
Unfortunately, more than a few of these remedies were lethal.
The most dangerous beauty aids during this time were white lead and
mercury. They not only eventually ruined the skin but also caused hair loss,
stomach problems, the shakes, and could even cause death. Although these
dangers became known through the death of courtesan Kitty Fisher, the majority of
women continued to use these deadly whiteners.
During the 1800's, women would use belladonna to make their eyes appear more
luminous, even though they were aware it was poisonous. Many cosmetics were
made by local pharmacists, known as apothecaries in England, and common
ingredients included mercury and nitric acid. Hair dye was made from coal tar, which
is now illegal in America.
It might interest you to know that men wore makeup until the 1850's. George
IV spent a fortune on cold cream, powders, pastes, and scents. However, not all
men wore makeup, as many looked upon a man with rouged cheeks as a dandy.
Here are some beauty-tip recipes utilized during the late 1800's:
Victorians abhorred makeup and associated its use with prostitutes and
actresses (many considered them one and the same). Any visible hint of tampering
with one's natural color would be looked upon with disdain. At that time, a
respectable woman would use home-prepared face masks, most of which were based on
foods such as oatmeal, honey, and egg yolk. For cleansing, rosewater or scented
vinegars were used. As a beauty regimen, a woman would pluck her eyebrows,
massage castor oil into her eyelashes, use rice powder to dust her nose, and
buff her nails to a shine. Lipstick was not used, but clear pomade would be
applied to add sheen. However some of these products contained a dye to discretely
enhance natural lip color. For a healthy look, red beet juice would be rubbed
into the cheeks, or the cheeks would be pinched (out of sight, of course). For
bright eyes, a drop of lemon juice in each eye would do the trick. When
makeup began to resurface, full makeup was still seen as sinful, although natural
tones were accepted to give a healthy, pink-cheek look.
The real evolution actually began during the 1910's. By then, women made
their own form of mascara by adding hot beads of wax to the tips of their
eyelashes. Some women would use petroleum jelly for this purpose. The first mascara
formulated was named after Mabel, the sister of its creator, T. L. Williams, who
utilized this method. This mascara is known today as Maybelline. In 1914, Max
Factor introduced his pancake makeup. Vogue featured Turkish women using
henna to outline their eyes, and the movie industry immediately took interest.
This technique made the eyes look larger, and the word "vamp" became associated
with these women, vamp being short for vampire.
During this decade, the first pressed powders were introduced which included
a mirror and puff for touchups. Pressed powder blush followed soon after. The
lipstick metal case, invented by Maurice Levy, became popular. Also, during
this time, lipstick was tattooed onto the lips by George Burchett, who was also
known as the "Beauty Doctor". This method did not always work, and you can
imagine the terrible consequences.
The earliest version of an acid peel was utilized at this time, which was a
combination of acid and electric currents applied to the skin. Also, a needle
would be used to insert paraffin to the eye area and cheeks, although this,
too, was not very successful. Nivea cream made its appearance in Germany, and
companies, in order to compete, began creating creams consisting of Vaseline
mixed with fragrance.
To help with sagging jowls and double-chins, women could purchase for wear a
weird-looking contraption with chin straps, which obviously did not work.
However, the Victorian look remained in fashion until mass makeup marketing
came about during the 1920's. The newly emancipated woman of America began to
display her independence by free use of red lipstick, which was often scented
with cherry. By the late '20's, visible makeup was considered a must by rural
women but was still frowned upon by the country girls. During this decade, lip
gloss was introduced by Max Factor. New shades of red lipstick were developed,
although were soap-based and very drying. The first eyelash curler came on
the scene, called Kurlash. Even though it was expensive and difficult to use,
this did not detract from its popularity. Mascara in cake and cream form was
extremely vogue.
From the 1930's through the 1950's, various movie stars proved to be the
models for current trends in makeup. Remember Audrey Hepburn's deeply outlined cat
eyes? With the '60's and the hippies came a more liberated makeup look, from
white lips and Egyptian-lined eyes to painted images on faces. Heavily lined
eyes continued through the '70's and '80's with a wide range of eye shadow
colors. Today's trend seems to have reverted to the more natural look with a
blending of styles from the past.
In today's world, a woman has literally hundreds of cosmetics to choose from,
with a wide variety of colors and uses. For a younger look, the options
available are as simple as skin hydrators and rejuvenators, advancing to chemical
skin peels, the now-popular Botox, collagen injections, and ending with the mor
e-drastic surgical facelift.
It is important to reflect on one's inner beauty as the real beauty of a
woman. Outer beauty will not remain forever, no matter what drastic measures are
taken. We have all heard the saying, "The eyes are the windows to the soul".
Look into your own orbits, take stock of the woman inside, and be happy with who
you are. This will reflect on your outlook on life, which will send a message
to others, and will be returned to you through their reactions to the
beautiful you.
by Christy French,
2006
In order to understand the constantly changing trends in cosmetics, it is
interesting to take a look at the evolution of makeup. Women and men have been
wearing cosmetics for centuries, although the styles have certainly undergone
some dramatic changes over time. Let's take a look at how cosmetics evolved.
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Christy Tillery French P.O. Box 297 Heiskell TN 37754 E-mail: readermail@ChristyFrench.Com |
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